The staircase is climbed slowly, step by step, up to 760 meters. And when you reach the top of the Nossa Senhora da Assunção mountain, in Vilas Boas, the horizon opens up all at once: within a radius of one hundred kilometers, you can see the Montesinho Natural Park, Mirandela, the Bornes mountain range and, far away, already in Spain, Sanabria.

It's the total solar eclipse of August 12, 2026. And the northeast of Trás-os-Montes is the only place in mainland Portugal where you can experience it in its entirety. On the nights that follow, the same territory returns the sky in another way: the Perseids, the most famous meteor shower of the year.

You close your eyes. Your cell phone has been in your pocket, silent for twenty minutes. You hear water—a stream you can't see, but you know it's there, somewhere among the ash trees. The earthen and shale ground creaks beneath your feet.

Imagine waking up on a farm in Trás-os-Montes without an alarm clock. The light streams in through the soft, golden stone window. Outside, the silence is so complete you can hear the wind rustling through the olive trees.