Azeite a Norte

The staircase is climbed slowly, step by step, up to 760 meters. And when you reach the top of the Nossa Senhora da Assunção mountain, in Vilas Boas, the horizon opens up all at once: within a radius of one hundred kilometers, you can see the Montesinho Natural Park, Mirandela, the Bornes mountain range and, far away, already in Spain, Sanabria.

The sun had barely set above the hilltops when there was already movement in Atenor. Not the hurried movement of cities—but the movement of long ears perking up, curious, when someone approaches the fence. Miranda's donkeys wake up slowly, like almost everything else on the plateau.

It's the total solar eclipse of August 12, 2026. And the northeast of Trás-os-Montes is the only place in mainland Portugal where you can experience it in its entirety. On the nights that follow, the same territory returns the sky in another way: the Perseids, the most famous meteor shower of the year.