The olive groves changed color without warning — yellow edges, olives painted, the silvery-green of the leaves turning with the whims of a wind that is no longer the wind of August.

It's the total solar eclipse of August 12, 2026. And the northeast of Trás-os-Montes is the only place in mainland Portugal where you can experience it in its entirety. On the nights that follow, the same territory returns the sky in another way: the Perseids, the most famous meteor shower of the year.