Autumn in Trás-os-Montes and Alto Douro: thermal springs, olive oil massage, boardwalks, and the harvest about to begin. A wellness guide for the season of return.

The sun had barely set above the hilltops when there was already movement in Atenor. Not the hurried movement of cities—but the movement of long ears perking up, curious, when someone approaches the fence. Miranda's donkeys wake up slowly, like almost everything else on the plateau.