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Christmas in Trás-os-Montes and Alto Douro: Ancestral Traditions that Warm the Soul

"When winter blankets the fields in frost and the cold settles in the mountains of Trás-os-Montes, the bonfires that have illuminated the most authentic Christmas in Portugal for centuries are lit."


Menino em tempo de Natal

Christmas in Trás-os-Montes and Alto Douro is a celebration that goes far beyond the lights and urban decorations. Here, in the schist and stone villages, in the snow-covered mountains and deep valleys, ancient traditions that blend the sacred and the profane, Christianity and ancient pagan rituals, remain alive. These are festivities that warm not only the body by the bonfires, but also the soul through conviviality, sharing, and a deep connection with the land and ancestors. [1].


The Burning of the "Madeiro": The Sacred Fire of Christmas Eve


One of the most emblematic traditions of Christmas in Trás-os-Montes is the burning of the bonfire — large bonfires lit on the night of December 24th, usually in the churchyard or the central square of the villages. This community event, which extends from Trás-os-Montes to Alto Alentejo, has its roots in ancient winter solstice cults, when people lit bonfires to celebrate the rebirth of the sun. [2].


How is the ritual of the bonfire experienced?:


Madeiro de Natal

The preparation begins days before, when the village boys—traditionally the unmarried ones—set off into the woods in search of the largest and most robust trunks and roots of old trees. Formerly transported in oxcarts, today they go by tractors, but the spirit remains: there is a certain "ritual theft" of wood, a permitted transgression that is part of the tradition.[3].


On Christmas Eve, the village eagerly awaits the arrival of the bonfire. The church bell announces the moment, and the people gather to see the immense pile of wood that will soon burn. Fueled by gasoline (formerly pine cones and dry straw were used), the bonfire is lit after Midnight Mass, transforming the cold night into a spectacle of light and heat. [4].


Around this monumental bonfire — which can reach the height of the church itself — the community gathers to:


  • Singing traditional songs for the Baby Jesus

  • Sharing wine, jeropiga (a type of fortified wine), new olive oil, and snacks (fritters, sausages, roasted chestnuts)

  • Grilling pork chops over embers

  • Telling stories and strengthening neighborhood ties


The bonfire burns for days, sometimes remaining lit until Epiphany (January 6th), serving as a meeting point and place for socializing throughout the Christmas season.

Villages where this tradition is experienced: Alijó, Vinhais, Bragança, Macedo de Cavaleiros, Carrazeda de Ansiães, and many other locations in the interior of Trás-os-Montes. [5].


The Boy's Festival: Masks, Costumes, and Winter Rituals


Between Christmas and Epiphany, some villages in Trás-os-Montes experience one of Portugal's most fascinating cultural events: the Festa dos Rapazes (also known as the Feast of Saint Stephen or the Feast of the Caretos). This celebration, with pre-Roman roots dating back to the Celts, is a rite of passage, fertility, and renewal that has survived the centuries. [6].


What are the Caretos?

The Caretos are masked young people who appear after Christmas Mass, dressed in colorful costumes made of woolen scraps and fringes, covered by masks of wood, leather, or brass painted in bright colors. With rattles hanging from their waists, they roam the streets in controlled chaos: jumping, shouting, "rattling" the girls (symbolizing the fertility of the land), provoking animals, and scattering hay in the streets, all to the sound of bagpipes, drums, and snare drums. [7].


Villages and their unique festivals:

  • Varge (Bragança) — December 25th and 26th: The masked figures appear right after morning mass. One of the most anticipated moments is the "singing of praises," when the events and behavior of the inhabitants during the year are criticized and ridiculed in humorous verses. It is a symbolic purification, accepted by the community as part of the tradition. [1]. 

  • Ousilhão (Vinhais) — December 25th and 26th: The Feast of Saint Stephen is notable for the symbolic passing of the torch between the King and his vassals, who are transported in an oxcart through the narrow streets to the communal bonfire. The masked figures, forbidden from entering the church, respect the solemnity but outside they spread irreverent energy. [7].

  • Vale do Porco — December 25th and January 1st: Celebrates the Old Man, the Caretos (masked figures), and the Chocalheiro (bell-ringer), characters that symbolize the transition between the old year and the new. During the event, there are rounds of people going from house to house offering cured meats, cakes, and wine to the participants..

  • Aveleda, Babe, Deilão, Montesinho, Gimonde and many other villages in the Montesinho Natural Park also keep these festivals alive, each with its own particularities..


Deep Meaning:

These festivals are winter solstice rituals that celebrate the rebirth of the sun, the fertility of the fields, and the transition of young people to adulthood. The masks represent the connection with ancestors and the protective spirits of the community. It is a unique intangible heritage that keeps alive the ancestral memory of these lands. [8].


At the Transmontana Christmas Eve Table


Christmas dinner in Trás-os-Montes and Alto Douro reflects the generosity of the land and genuine simplicity. Unlike other regions, here tradition dictates that, in addition to cod, there is room for other delicacies that tell stories of generations.


Azeite na cozinha

Typical Christmas Eve dishes [9]:

  • Boiled cod with egg, potato, carrot and Portuguese cabbage, seasoned with a generous drizzle of extra virgin olive oil from the region.

  • Boiled octopus — a much appreciated regional alternative, served in the same way as the cod.

  • Boiled eggs, an element that cannot be missing from the table.


For Christmas lunch (December 25th):

  • Chicken soup with "pevide" pasta to start

  • Roast turkey, suckling pig, lamb or pork roasted in a wood-fired oven

  • Traditional side dishes from the region


Christmas sweets from Trás-os-Montes:

  • Sweet Migas — one of the most traditional sweets of the region

  • Pumpkin or sweet potato fritters

  • "French toast" soaked in wine or milk

  • Nuts (walnuts, almonds, raisins) and dried figs

  • "King Cake", which also arrived on the tables of Trás-os-Montes


All this accompanied by a good wine and, of course, a generous drizzle of the latest fresh olive oil. [10].


Other Christmas Traditions from Trás-os-Montes


Midnight Mass: A solemn celebration at midnight on December 24th, it is the moment when the entire community gathers in the church. In villages celebrating the Children's Festival, the young people stand in a prominent place near the altar and are the first to "kiss the Child" before leaving to continue the festivities.

Traditional songs: Many villages maintain the tradition of singing songs to the Child, sung in choruses by the population around the bonfire or during the boys' rounds through the houses.


Authentic Christmas Experiences in the Region


For those seeking a truly different Christmas experience, Trás-os-Montes and Alto Douro offer unforgettable experiences:

  • Attending a Boys' Festival: Villages like Varge, Ousilhão, Aveleda and many others in the Bragança municipality open their doors to visitors. It's a unique opportunity to witness a millennial ritual, alive and authentic.

    Participating in the burning of the bonfire: Join the local population around the bonfire, taste the sausages roasted on the embers, drink a glass of wine and feel the warmth of the Trás-os-Montes community.

    Savoring Christmas gastronomy: Restaurants and rural tourism houses in the region (more information in Azeite a Norte) serve traditional Christmas menus, where olive oil from the latest harvest is always the star ingredient.

  • Exploring the schist villages: From Montesinho to Rio de Onor, from Gimonde to França, these villages transform into fairytale settings in winter, with stone houses covered in snow and smoke rising from fireplaces through the chimneys.

  • Visiting mills and producers: Even in winter, some mills and producers keep their doors open for tastings of new olive oil and guided tours, combined with tastings of wines and regional products.


Christmas and Olive Oil: The Perfect Alchemy


Jantar de Natal

The new olive oil, harvested between October and December, arrives at the Christmas table in Trás-os-Montes still fresh and aromatic. It is the ingredient that elevates all dishes, from simple boiled cod to sweet migas, from French toast to oven-baked roasts.


Christmas recipes with olive oil:

  • Generously cooked codfish drizzled with extra virgin olive oil

  • Oven-roasted potatoes with garlic, rosemary, and olive oil

  • Fried fritters in olive oil (a tradition in some homes)

  • Sweet breadcrumbs where the olive oil gives a velvety texture

  • "Olive oil bread" (Broas de Azeite) to accompany coffee


Olive oil also plays a prominent role in Christmas gifts — bottles of olive oil from local producers are cherished gifts that carry with them the flavor and history of these lands.


Preserve and Celebrate


The Christmas traditions of Trás-os-Montes and Alto Douro are a cultural treasure that withstands the test of time. In an increasingly globalized world, these villages keep alive a unique intangible heritage, passed down from generation to generation.

Visiting these lands at Christmas is not just watching a spectacle—it's becoming part of a community, it's experiencing firsthand what it means to belong to a place, it's understanding that traditions are not just folklore for tourists to watch, but the essence of a people who honor their roots.


"When the bonfire burns in the churchyard and the masked figures parade through the streets to the sound of rattles, it's not just Christmas that is being celebrated—it's life, the land, the ancestors, and the hope that these traditions will continue to warm the winters of Trás-os-Montes for many generations to come."


Come and discover the most authentic Christmas in Portugal. Come and feel the warmth of the bonfires and the hospitality of the Trás-os-Montes region.




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