Mushrooms and Olive Oil: When the Forest Meets the Olive Grove
- Azeite a Norte
- 3 days ago
- 5 min read
As soon as summer ends and autumn arrives, delicious wild mushrooms appear in Trás-os-Montes. It is also now that the olive presses begin their work, transforming olives into new olive oil.
Two rhythms of the same land, two products that reach the table at the same time of year—as if nature had conspired to bring them together.
The Hidden Flavor in the Woods
It is said in the region that during mushroom season there are no bad cooks — a saying that holds truer than it seems. Wild mushrooms have the ability to transform any simple dish into a memorable meal.
And in Trás-os-Montes, mushrooms usually accompany game dishes, which are very typical of the region.
But the truth is that mushrooms have been gaining more and more space at the table, even assuming the role of "star of the dish" thanks to their intense texture and flavor, perfect for those seeking alternatives to meat or simply appreciating the local cuisine.
The region hides an impressive diversity.
According to Manuel Moredo, president of the mycological association based in Mogadouro, "A Pantorra" has already identified more than 400 species of mushrooms in Northeast Trás-os-Montes in the last 20 years.
And experts are convinced that there are many more to be identified — a natural heritage that is part of the cultural identity of this territory.
https://www.diariodetrasosmontes.com/noticia/associacao-a-pantorra-ja-identificou-600-especies-de-cogumelos-silvestres Frades, Sanchas e Pantorras: "Um Dicionário da Floresta".
The most common and appreciated mushrooms are those known here as "frades" or "roques," "cardielos" or "cantarelos," "pinheiras," and also the famous "cepes": *Boletus edulis*.
The "frades" (Macrolepiota procera) are among the best known in Portugal. They have a movable ring and many scales on their beige cap, which is very large and can reach the size of a dinner plate.
In Trás-os-Montes, they are often eaten roasted over embers—a simple way that lets the mushroom speak for itself, preserving a know-how passed down through generations.
The "sanchas" (Lactarius deliciosus) are also highly prized. They are orange, with some redder areas. They are found under or at the foot of pine trees and always appear in groups.
There is an important detail: If you cut the stem to cook them and they release a white or yellow latex, they should be discarded. If the latex is orange or red, it is *Lactatus sanguinophorus*, which is also edible and highly valued.
Chanterellus cibarius (chanterelles) fruit from spring, especially if it is rainy, until autumn. Yellow, egg yolk, whitish-yellow, or orange-yellow in color, it is also known for its medicinal value, as it contains eight types of essential amino acids and vitamin A. It has a pleasantly aromatic smell, like dried plum or peach.
And then there are the rare morels (*Morchella esculenta*), which are rare and highly prized, which is why they are among the most valued in international haute cuisine—French, for example.
Dried morels can cost up to 300 euros per kilo.. https://pantorra.pt/
Olive oil: The best companion for mushrooms.
When it comes to preparing wild mushrooms in Trás-os-Montes, the most traditional way is straightforward: sautéed in generous olive oil with garlic and salt. It's a technique that respects the product and allows its intense flavor to fully express itself.
The olive oil plays two roles here.
First, it's the vehicle that allows the mushrooms to release their aromas—the fat extracts and amplifies aromatic compounds. Second, the extra virgin olive oil from Trás-os-Montes, with its fruity notes, slight bitterness, and spicy touch when young, creates a perfect contrast with the earthy and deep flavor of the mushroom.
It's a combination that works because both have strong personalities, but they complement each other instead of competing. The fresh herb and almond notes of the olive oil balance the intense umami of the mushroom. And when using new, still green and spicy olive oil, the intensity can withstand that of the mushroom without being lost.
This connection between olive oil and forest products is an expression of the Mediterranean Diet, recognized as Intangible Cultural Heritage by UNESCO — a food tradition that values local products, seasonality, and simple techniques that respect the ingredient.
From Tradition to Plate
The simplest way remains the best: drizzle olive oil in a frying pan, heat it, and add the sliced mushrooms, already washed and drained. Cook for a few minutes. Add the chopped garlic cloves and cook over high heat, stirring, so that the water from the mushrooms evaporates.
Some add aromatic herbs from the region—thyme, rosemary—and a touch of coarse salt at the end. Some prefer to finish with a drizzle of raw olive oil on top, to add freshness. And some serve it on toasted rye bread, letting it absorb the juices.
These are different ways to celebrate the same union—that of what comes from the humid forest with what grows in the sun-drenched olive grove. Recipes passed down from generation to generation, preserved in the memory of local communities and part of the gastronomic identity of Trás-os-Montes.
A Growing Interest
Some municipalities are already investing in hiking trails with mushroom collection and identification, mycological gatherings, and gastronomic events.
In Vinhais, within the Montesinho Natural Park, there is a Mycological Center that allows visitors to learn more about this world.
And initiatives like the Sendim da Serra Mycological Festival, in Alfândega da Fé, bring together gastronomy, territory, and community.
According to researchers from the mycological association based in Mogadouro, the potential of wild mushrooms increases year after year in Trás-os-Montes, as a consequence of specialists identifying a greater number of edible and commercially profitable species.
Tasting the Territory
When we taste wild mushrooms sautéed in new olive oil from Trás-os-Montes, we are tasting more than just a successful gastronomic combination. We are tasting a territory—the result of schist soil, an extreme climate, forests and olive groves that have coexisted for centuries.
It is regional gastronomy in its essence: letting exceptionally high-quality ingredients speak for themselves. There's no need to complicate things. A generous drizzle of olive oil, garlic, salt, and respect for the product. The rest happens naturally.
And at this time of year, with autumn coloring the Trás-os-Montes landscape in golden and brown hues, with the olive presses working and the forests revealing their hidden treasures, it's the perfect moment to discover or rediscover this connection.
Because there are flavors that only make sense where they are born. And mushrooms with olive oil in Trás-os-Montes is one of those flavors—authentic, direct, impossible to replicate far from the land that creates it.
An Important Safety Note
It is crucial to make this perfectly clear: experts who study mushrooms warn of the "hidden dangers" associated with this "risky food," and it should be taken into account that these fungi should only be collected by those who know and study the various species.
There are toxic and even deadly species in the region. Caution is needed, as it can be confused with *Macrolepiota venenata*, which is toxic when ingested. Never consume wild mushrooms without being certain of the species.
If you want to learn about the mushrooms of the region, look for organized walks with certified technicians or seek out reputable producers. The DGADR and ICNF published the "Manual of Good Practices for Harvesting and Consuming Wild Mushrooms" (2013), which establishes important rules for those who want to learn.. https://www.dgadr.gov.pt/images/docs/div_meiorural/MBPCCCogumelosSilv.pdf
Other References
Oancea, S., Popa, M., Socaci, S. A., & Dulf, F. V. (2023). Comparative Study of Raw and Dehydrated Boletus edulis Mushrooms by Hot Air and Centrifugal Vacuum Processes: Functional Properties and Fatty Acid and Aroma Profiles. Applied Sciences, 13(6), 3630. https://doi.org/10.3390/app13063630
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